When it came to beauty looks, a sense of naturalness and realness permeated the S/S 2015 collections. But, as so often when fashion goes minimalist in one area, the dynamic gets balanced out in another. This time that meant moving the spotlight just a few inches up, from lips, cheeks and eyes to statement hair.
Look at Marc Jacobs, who sent out an army of models on the catwalk wearing choppy black wigs, none with any makeup. The message was clear: strong hair needs nothing else, not even a slick of lip gloss.
When we say statement hair, don’t think that has to mean crazy cuts, bold colours or complicated up-dos. Guido Palau, the man behind the wigs at Marc Jacobs, explains: “The looks we were doing for spring 2015 were about hyperrealism. It’s what we are terming ‘the new normal’ – being wearable and relatable.” Paris master stylist David Mallett adds: “This is statement hair, intelligent hair. [The look] is dishevelled, well-designed and adapted to our times. Normal and real, just a bit better.”
At Creatures of the Wind, we saw more of that. Anthony Turner’s ponytails were messy and half-undone. And Eugene Souleiman brought back the crimper for the ponies at Stella McCartney. Sweaty gym hair was the inspiration for Guido’s wet-look styles at Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang.
John Frieda creative consultant Harry Josh (who tends to Gisele’s hair, among others) believes that runway trends “are definitely a reflection of what the modern woman wants to wear”. At the same time, the supermodel stylist says, “This is really the age of independent women. They’re working in demanding, high-powered jobs that take up a lot of time, but they’re never going to sacrifice style. The end result is often something that is low maintenance – or at least looks low maintenance – but is always chic.”