In all its many variations, boho has become an eternal style, forever reinventing itself. What was once
a look for the wealthy and privileged is now the essence of summer. But why? To find out, we need to go back to its roots.
Anyone scanning through the S/S 2012 collections could have been forgiven for feeling a sense of déjà vu. Bohemian style was back – there, in the pyjama-style shapes at Jonathan Saunders, Stella McCartney and Clements Ribeiro, and in the textures, embellishment and prints in collections from Valentino and Rodarte, where a fairytale inspiration led to beautifully romantic dresses. A global magpie way of dressing, meanwhile, could be seen in the layers of Haider Ackermann’s looks, paisleys at Jil Sander and Pucci, and the vibrant prints in collections such as Peter Pilotto’s, inspired by a holiday in Indonesia. Even Burberry Prorsum had a tribal edge – with designer Christopher Bailey using tribal prints, raffia and wrap shapes. Put all these themes together and what have you got? A bohemian style brew, once again.
Of course, in one way or another, we have seen it all before – this was like the return of an old, much-loved friend. Bohemian – or boho, for short – style has moved from the fringes to become a perennial, appearing again and again, each time the temperatures rise. It sums up summer in a way that little else in fashion does.
But for a classic to stay relevant, it has to reinvent itself. Right now, bohemian style works best when it’s given a bit of contrast. “I think it’s fun to wear a tribal-print dress with something ultra-modern like a simple white t-shirt,” says style journalist Lucie Greene. “Modern bohemian is more grown-up and cleaner in silhouette,” adds stylist Sara Hassan. “Keep it simple, and work a pattern clash elegantly, too.”
The new bohemian style mixes up different influences – from global traveller to vintage chic – to make a something-for-everyone amalgam. Once a luxury trend for the jet set, boho is now approachable. All you need is a little imagination. “We’ve moved beyond the Ibiza-infused boho style,” says Greene. “Summer’s boho look is much more urban and fresh. It’s incorporating tropical prints, tribal motifs and louche flowing shapes into looks but not in such a costume-y way.”
Indeed – and, for evidence, check out the girls wearing it now, and the different ways they do so. Valentine Fillol Cordier, a model, stylist and muse of designer Charles Anastase, has always refused to fit into a box, dressing in long layers and ancient brogues. Josephine de la Baume, with her mane of wild red hair and classic looks, brings a certain romance to the bohemian, while Lou Doillon mixes mannish tailoring with foxy looks.
While these women might make it onto moodboards of our style dreams now, they are, of course, referencing what came before. Bohemian icons have been around for over a century, enchanting us with style just a little outside the norm. Ranging from Vanessa Bell’s arts-and-crafts-influenced Bloomsbury look to the flapper party dresses of Zelda Fitzgerald, the Granny Takes A Trip girls of psychedelic 1960s London, and Stevie Nicks’ and Kate Bush’s soft-focus 1970s romance, as well as, more recently, Miller’s boho style, there’s lots to spark the imagination.
Loulou de la Falaise is another name to check. A muse for Yves Saint Laurent from the late 60s onwards, when she died late last year, The New Yorker dubbed her “the quintessential Rive Gauche haute bohémienne.”
Because it is as much about personality as any rulebook, infinite interpretations of how to be bohemian are possible. Put it this way: there’s no right or wrong, only your way… And what’s not to love about that?
An easy, breezy style is something we can all embrace – especially in the summer. Bohemian style now, you see, isn’t about the clichés; you could say it’s gone beyond that and back to the beginning. It’s about uniqueness, so make sure you avoid out-and-out copying. If a boho spirit is about anything, it’s being a real original and finding your own way, with only your style instincts to guide you. When Saint Laurent first met de la Falaise, he was entranced by the fact that she had reappropriated the metal band found on a restaurant tablecloth for a bracelet. Think of this the next time you’re getting dressed and have fun with what you wear. As Hassan says of de la Falaise, “she could have got dressed in the dark,” such was her flair and, indeed, fearlessness. Have a go at this trend and you might well find your own version of that classic bohemian style this summer.
