公司责任
H&M的商业理念是以最优价格为顾客提供时尚及品质。在H&M，品质的含意远非只是保证我们的产品符合或超越我们顾客的期望。它还意味着产品必须是在良好的条件下生产，以及我们的顾客必须满意我们这个公司整体。为我们的经营活动对人类及环境造成的影响而承担责任也是H&M保持利润率及增长的根本前提。本节阐述我们是如何执行的。
2010.03.09
The role of garment export in the development of countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia is a subject I have been reflecting over for many years. After writing about the tragic fire in Bangladesh the other day, I started again to think about the conflicting expectations we meet from various stakeholders in connection with our import from for example Bangladesh.
According to BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) the garment industry stands for 75% of the country’s export, employing 2,5 million workers in 4700 factories (2007-08). Twenty years ago the industry employed only 400.000 workers. The growth of the garment export in the last twenty years has created 2 million jobs in one of the world’s poorest countries!
The growing garment industry in Bangladesh does not only lead to job creation and economic development. As most garment workers are women, the garment industry offers a unique opportunity for women to get out of their homes and earn their own income. This has quickly led to a promotion of women’s rights in a country where traditionally women had very little say about for example the family income and spending.
At the same time, there are frequent reports about work place accidents, bad working conditions, low wages and lack of freedom of association in the garment industry in Bangladesh. CSR is therefore important, we have to strive for improved working conditions. And of course we do so through our Code of Conduct, our environmental policies and our audit program. But we don’t own or run the factories, we don’t set the minimum wages and we don’t control the corruption that threatens the integrity of inspections of the factories from the authorities.
As there are so many things we do not control but still are held accountable for, should we decide not to buy from countries like Bangladesh? Would a few hundred thousand lost jobs in one of the poorest countries in the world be the solution? I think the statistics clearly show that the worst H&M and other buyers could do for the workers in Bangladesh and other poor countries would actually be to stop sourcing from those markets.
The garment industry requires low investment and is labour intensive and therefore often the first industry a country can afford to set up as it starts to develop. An example is Hong Kong that only fifty years ago was known for its low cost industrial products and now is a highly developed economy. But without an export market the economy will not grow.
I therefore think, in spite of the problems connected to the working conditions in the garment industry in countries like Bangladesh and India, and in spite of the reputational risk connected to this trade, that we have an obligation to continue to source from those countries. This in connection with a robust CSR-program can, in itself, be a way of taking a social responsibility and to contribute to the development of those economies.
Read more
2010.03.09
The role of garment export in the development of countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia is a subject I have been reflecting over for many years. After writing about the tragic fire in Bangladesh the other day, I started again to think about the conflicting expectations we meet from various stakeholders in connection with our import from for example Bangladesh.
According to BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) the garment industry stands for 75% of the country’s export, employing 2,5 million workers in 4700 factories (2007-08). Twenty years ago the industry employed only 400.000 workers. The growth of the garment export in the last twenty years has created 2 million jobs in one of the world’s poorest countries!
The growing garment industry in Bangladesh does not only lead to job creation and economic development. As most garment workers are women, the garment industry offers a unique opportunity for women to get out of their homes and earn their own income. This has quickly led to a promotion of women’s rights in a country where traditionally women had very little say about for example the family income and spending.
At the same time, there are frequent reports about work place accidents, bad working conditions, low wages and lack of freedom of association in the garment industry in Bangladesh. CSR is therefore important, we have to strive for improved working conditions. And of course we do so through our Code of Conduct, our environmental policies and our audit program. But we don’t own or run the factories, we don’t set the minimum wages and we don’t control the corruption that threatens the integrity of inspections of the factories from the authorities.
As there are so many things we do not control but still are held accountable for, should we decide not to buy from countries like Bangladesh? Would a few hundred thousand lost jobs in one of the poorest countries in the world be the solution? I think the statistics clearly show that the worst H&M and other buyers could do for the workers in Bangladesh and other poor countries would actually be to stop sourcing from those markets.
The garment industry requires low investment and is labour intensive and therefore often the first industry a country can afford to set up as it starts to develop. An example is Hong Kong that only fifty years ago was known for its low cost industrial products and now is a highly developed economy. But without an export market the economy will not grow.
I therefore think, in spite of the problems connected to the working conditions in the garment industry in countries like Bangladesh and India, and in spite of the reputational risk connected to this trade, that we have an obligation to continue to source from those countries. This in connection with a robust CSR-program can, in itself, be a way of taking a social responsibility and to contribute to the development of those economies.
2010.03.04
Back from a time of absence I learn about the very tragic fire accident at Garib & Garib, a garment factory in Bangladesh producing sweaters for H&M. It was in the evening of February 25th that 21 garment workers died from smoke inhalation and around 30 were injured when an electrical short circuit caused a fire in the factory. My and my colleagues’ immediate thoughts of course go to the families of the victims.
Safety in the factories we source from has been a priority since we started to focus on supply chain working conditions in 1997. I wrote our Code of Conduct back then and the chapter about safety was actually more comprehensive than most company codes. The reason was that I had been based in Asia in the mid nineties and visited Bangladesh regularly for five years. In 1992 when I first visited Bangladesh, many factories where located in narrow downtown buildings with very poor safety. I would say that some were virtual fire traps. This was unacceptable to H&M, and since then all garment factories producing for us in Bangladesh have moved to proper industrial buildings outside the city centre, resulting in considerably improved fire safety. None of our suppliers in Bangladesh have factories in buildings without emergency exits and basic fire safety, and fire safety is still a priority during our factory audits. For instance we check that emergency exits exist and are unlocked and unobstructed, we check fire fighting equipment, evacuation plans and make sure that all workers have participated in evacuation training.
Tragically, in spite of all preventive measures, accidents can still happen. When they do, H&M takes immediate action and that is what our CSR-team in Bangladesh now does. We have to investigate ourselves what has happened and we also take part of external reports. This is both to understand if the supplier has failed in their responsibility and to learn what further preventive measures can be taken in this or other factories in the future. In this case, early investigations show that emergency exits had not been locked, something that was cited in the first media reports. Our own investigations include site visits, contacts with management, with trade unions, with workers, with the BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacture and Export Association) and other relevant parties. We also try to contact other buyers as we are only one of the companies sourcing from the factory.
We will also follow up on the supplier taking responsibility for compensating the families of the victims. At Garib & Garib the factory has already paid out 15.000 Thaka to each family to cover the cost of the funeral. In total each family will receive 300.000 Thaka, from the factory and BGMEA. Trade unions are understandably pushing for the entire amount to be paid out immediately, but this is not easy. As most workers came from countryside villages, the family has gone there for the funeral and it is essential to make sure that such large amounts of money are paid out to the correct persons. Today we have just received confirmation that 200.000 Thaka per victim will be paid out soon. Remaining 100.000 Thaka will be paid out later from the insurance. H&M will definitely make sure that the compensation is really paid out as promised and without undue delay.
Finally we will think about how H&M and the other parties involved can best contribute. We believe that it is important to take some time to think about the long term needs of the survivors, of the other workers in the factory, of the industry at large and so on before we decide what to do. We do take a long term view at our work with CSR and we always strive to improve. If we find that there is anything more we at H&M can do to prevent such accidents from happening again, I can ensure you that we will do it.
Read more
2010.03.04
Back from a time of absence I learn about the very tragic fire accident at Garib & Garib, a garment factory in Bangladesh producing sweaters for H&M. It was in the evening of February 25th that 21 garment workers died from smoke inhalation and around 30 were injured when an electrical short circuit caused a fire in the factory. My and my colleagues’ immediate thoughts of course go to the families of the victims.
Safety in the factories we source from has been a priority since we started to focus on supply chain working conditions in 1997. I wrote our Code of Conduct back then and the chapter about safety was actually more comprehensive than most company codes. The reason was that I had been based in Asia in the mid nineties and visited Bangladesh regularly for five years. In 1992 when I first visited Bangladesh, many factories where located in narrow downtown buildings with very poor safety. I would say that some were virtual fire traps. This was unacceptable to H&M, and since then all garment factories producing for us in Bangladesh have moved to proper industrial buildings outside the city centre, resulting in considerably improved fire safety. None of our suppliers in Bangladesh have factories in buildings without emergency exits and basic fire safety, and fire safety is still a priority during our factory audits. For instance we check that emergency exits exist and are unlocked and unobstructed, we check fire fighting equipment, evacuation plans and make sure that all workers have participated in evacuation training.
Tragically, in spite of all preventive measures, accidents can still happen. When they do, H&M takes immediate action and that is what our CSR-team in Bangladesh now does. We have to investigate ourselves what has happened and we also take part of external reports. This is both to understand if the supplier has failed in their responsibility and to learn what further preventive measures can be taken in this or other factories in the future. In this case, early investigations show that emergency exits had not been locked, something that was cited in the first media reports. Our own investigations include site visits, contacts with management, with trade unions, with workers, with the BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacture and Export Association) and other relevant parties. We also try to contact other buyers as we are only one of the companies sourcing from the factory.
We will also follow up on the supplier taking responsibility for compensating the families of the victims. At Garib & Garib the factory has already paid out 15.000 Thaka to each family to cover the cost of the funeral. In total each family will receive 300.000 Thaka, from the factory and BGMEA. Trade unions are understandably pushing for the entire amount to be paid out immediately, but this is not easy. As most workers came from countryside villages, the family has gone there for the funeral and it is essential to make sure that such large amounts of money are paid out to the correct persons. Today we have just received confirmation that 200.000 Thaka per victim will be paid out soon. Remaining 100.000 Thaka will be paid out later from the insurance. H&M will definitely make sure that the compensation is really paid out as promised and without undue delay.
Finally we will think about how H&M and the other parties involved can best contribute. We believe that it is important to take some time to think about the long term needs of the survivors, of the other workers in the factory, of the industry at large and so on before we decide what to do. We do take a long term view at our work with CSR and we always strive to improve. If we find that there is anything more we at H&M can do to prevent such accidents from happening again, I can ensure you that we will do it.
2009.12.29
You will not hear from me here for a while. I will be on extended leave during January and February and will only appear back here again in March. Should something exceptional happen in the field of CSR during my absence, one of my colleagues might post an update in this column. The rest of hm.com/csr will be updated as usual.
2010 will be an exciting year! Our revised Code of Conduct will be launched, we continue to implement our sustainability strategy, and we take on the challenge of further reducing our impact on the climate. We continue to expand the use of sustainable materials, and of course our All for Children project in India continues. In the spring we publish our Sustainability Report where you can read all about our challenges and achievments during 2009.
I wish you all a really sustainable 2010 and I am looking forward to meeting you back here in March!
Read more
2009.12.29
You will not hear from me here for a while. I will be on extended leave during January and February and will only appear back here again in March. Should something exceptional happen in the field of CSR during my absence, one of my colleagues might post an update in this column. The rest of hm.com/csr will be updated as usual.
2010 will be an exciting year! Our revised Code of Conduct will be launched, we continue to implement our sustainability strategy, and we take on the challenge of further reducing our impact on the climate. We continue to expand the use of sustainable materials, and of course our All for Children project in India continues. In the spring we publish our Sustainability Report where you can read all about our challenges and achievments during 2009.
I wish you all a really sustainable 2010 and I am looking forward to meeting you back here in March!
2009.12.21
In the wake of the failure to reach a legally binding agreement in Copenhagen, H&M is pleased to announce a new reduction target for our CO2 emissions. We pledge to reduce our emissions intensity by 5% per year until 2012. Our previous target was a reduction of 10% in 5 years from 2005 to 2009. We decided to set a new target only for the next three years as we believe this will help us to keep our focus here and now. We know that in order to limit the temperature increase to 2 degrees Celsius, it is crucial that reductions happen now, not in 2020 or 2050.
Unfortunately the failure to reach a legally binding agreement in Copenhagen has created a lot of uncertainty about the regulations and other policy changes that may effect H&M in the future. We operate in a highly competitive industry and market. We want to act responsibly, but we need a level playing field where our competition has to play by the same rules, and this can only be created by regulation and public policy. We are therefore disappointed that the Copenhagen meeting did not deliver a strong and legally binding agreement, but never the less our efforts to reduce our own emissions continue!
Read more
2009.12.21
In the wake of the failure to reach a legally binding agreement in Copenhagen, H&M is pleased to announce a new reduction target for our CO2 emissions. We pledge to reduce our emissions intensity by 5% per year until 2012. Our previous target was a reduction of 10% in 5 years from 2005 to 2009. We decided to set a new target only for the next three years as we believe this will help us to keep our focus here and now. We know that in order to limit the temperature increase to 2 degrees Celsius, it is crucial that reductions happen now, not in 2020 or 2050.
Unfortunately the failure to reach a legally binding agreement in Copenhagen has created a lot of uncertainty about the regulations and other policy changes that may effect H&M in the future. We operate in a highly competitive industry and market. We want to act responsibly, but we need a level playing field where our competition has to play by the same rules, and this can only be created by regulation and public policy. We are therefore disappointed that the Copenhagen meeting did not deliver a strong and legally binding agreement, but never the less our efforts to reduce our own emissions continue!
2009.12.15
H&M is honoured to have been awarded "company of the year" by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals). The "Proggy" award stands for progress, and it is particularly our new policy to not use exotic skins that PETA is rewarding us for.
As we have expanded our range of products in recent years to include shoes and accessories where exotic skins are commonly used, it was important for us to add real exotic skins to our list of materials that for various environmental and ethical reasons are not allowed in our products. There are so many really nice alternatives available that there is no reason to use real skins, at least not if you care about animals.
As I am sure you already know, we don't sell real fur since many years and we only sell leather from animals that are bred for the meet. If you are interested in more details about how H&M cares for animals, read our full product policy.
Read more
2009.12.15
H&M is honoured to have been awarded "company of the year" by PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals). The "Proggy" award stands for progress, and it is particularly our new policy to not use exotic skins that PETA is rewarding us for.
As we have expanded our range of products in recent years to include shoes and accessories where exotic skins are commonly used, it was important for us to add real exotic skins to our list of materials that for various environmental and ethical reasons are not allowed in our products. There are so many really nice alternatives available that there is no reason to use real skins, at least not if you care about animals.
As I am sure you already know, we don't sell real fur since many years and we only sell leather from animals that are bred for the meet. If you are interested in more details about how H&M cares for animals, read our full product policy.
2009.12.10
I am using a Swedish search engine called Growyn. Have you heard about it yet? I think it is such a great initiative that I wanted to let more people know about it. Growyn is run by an NGO that donates it's profit to environmental projects. So by using Growyn every time I look for information on the internet I automatically support the environment, is't that smart?
Do you want to try? More information here: Growyn!
Read more
2009.12.10
I am using a Swedish search engine called Growyn. Have you heard about it yet? I think it is such a great initiative that I wanted to let more people know about it. Growyn is run by an NGO that donates it's profit to environmental projects. So by using Growyn every time I look for information on the internet I automatically support the environment, is't that smart?
Do you want to try? More information here: Growyn!
2009.11.30
Cotton from Uzbekistan continues to be a main focus for H&M as well as for many other retailers in our business. H&M has clearly expressed since two years that we are extremely worried about the reports about forced child labour in the cotton fields of Uzbekistan.
We have also expressed a clear ambition to avoid cotton from Uzbekistan in our products. However we have refrained from claiming that we are boycotting cotton from Uzbekistan. The most important reason is that we, as other major retailers no matter what they claim, can't guarantee that no cotton from Uzbekistan end up in our products. We prefer honesty rather than easy but baseless PR-messages. Interestingly some media and NGO's are currently rewarding companies for what they say they do, rather than for what they do, but we still believe that honesty is the best long term strategy.
We had already predicted that attempts to boycott would unfortunately not be effective, as there are too many scruple-free buyers in this world. And sadly, reports from this year's cotton fair in Tashkent proved us right. In spite of efforts to boycott cotton from Uzbekistan, all cotton was quickly sold at ordinary prices.
This does not mean that we and others are giving up the efforts to change the situation. We at H&M continue to find ways to avoid the cotton from Uzbekistan ending up in our products as before, but still without claiming that we manage a complete boycott. Last week we had a team in Bangladesh, meeting with suppliers, spinners, mills and traders to learn more about traceability efforts made there and to better understand how country of origin can be controlled through the supply chain. It is challenging; we have so far not seen any large scale successful attempts in spite of claims made by others, but of course we continue our research.
We have sent a letter to the handful suppliers, spinners and mills in our supply chain that we have identified as being invited to the recent cotton fair in Tashkent. In this letter we made it clear that cotton from Uzbekistan is not accepted in our products, and from those who had been at the fair we got prompt replies back that Uzbek cotton is not being used.
We have also, together with the FLA (Fair Labor Association) , addressed the issue to the Swedish Government in connection with the CSR conference in Stockholm arranged under the Swedish EU Presidency on the theme of Protect, Respect and the Right to Remedy framework, a few weeks back. We encourage all constructive approaches to addressing the issue in Uzbekistan. Awareness rising within the country is important and the implementation of the recently ratified ILO conventions 138 and 182 must be followed up by the ILO-IPEC and UNICEF through their representation in Uzbekistan.
Read more
2009.11.30
Cotton from Uzbekistan continues to be a main focus for H&M as well as for many other retailers in our business. H&M has clearly expressed since two years that we are extremely worried about the reports about forced child labour in the cotton fields of Uzbekistan.
We have also expressed a clear ambition to avoid cotton from Uzbekistan in our products. However we have refrained from claiming that we are boycotting cotton from Uzbekistan. The most important reason is that we, as other major retailers no matter what they claim, can't guarantee that no cotton from Uzbekistan end up in our products. We prefer honesty rather than easy but baseless PR-messages. Interestingly some media and NGO's are currently rewarding companies for what they say they do, rather than for what they do, but we still believe that honesty is the best long term strategy.
We had already predicted that attempts to boycott would unfortunately not be effective, as there are too many scruple-free buyers in this world. And sadly, reports from this year's cotton fair in Tashkent proved us right. In spite of efforts to boycott cotton from Uzbekistan, all cotton was quickly sold at ordinary prices.
This does not mean that we and others are giving up the efforts to change the situation. We at H&M continue to find ways to avoid the cotton from Uzbekistan ending up in our products as before, but still without claiming that we manage a complete boycott. Last week we had a team in Bangladesh, meeting with suppliers, spinners, mills and traders to learn more about traceability efforts made there and to better understand how country of origin can be controlled through the supply chain. It is challenging; we have so far not seen any large scale successful attempts in spite of claims made by others, but of course we continue our research.
We have sent a letter to the handful suppliers, spinners and mills in our supply chain that we have identified as being invited to the recent cotton fair in Tashkent. In this letter we made it clear that cotton from Uzbekistan is not accepted in our products, and from those who had been at the fair we got prompt replies back that Uzbek cotton is not being used.
We have also, together with the FLA (Fair Labor Association) , addressed the issue to the Swedish Government in connection with the CSR conference in Stockholm arranged under the Swedish EU Presidency on the theme of Protect, Respect and the Right to Remedy framework, a few weeks back. We encourage all constructive approaches to addressing the issue in Uzbekistan. Awareness rising within the country is important and the implementation of the recently ratified ILO conventions 138 and 182 must be followed up by the ILO-IPEC and UNICEF through their representation in Uzbekistan.
2009.11.19
I was reached this morning by the incredibly sad news that Neil Kearney had passed away in Dhaka during the night. I do not know his family, but of course my first thoughts go to them. I have known Neil for more than ten years, he had become a friend that I truly admired for his endless fight for the garment workers' right to organise all around the world. For those of you who did not have the privilege to know Neil, he was the Secretary General of ITGLWF (International Textile Garment and Leather Workers Federation) and he spent his time travelling from country to country, always prepared to stand up and fight for better working conditions for garment workers and for their right to organise.
I have spent the morning thinking about what it will mean to me, to H&M, to the garment industry, to the affiliated unions, to millions of garment workers that Neil is no longer among us. And I come up with four simple words, he will be missed!
Read more
2009.11.19
I was reached this morning by the incredibly sad news that Neil Kearney had passed away in Dhaka during the night. I do not know his family, but of course my first thoughts go to them. I have known Neil for more than ten years, he had become a friend that I truly admired for his endless fight for the garment workers' right to organise all around the world. For those of you who did not have the privilege to know Neil, he was the Secretary General of ITGLWF (International Textile Garment and Leather Workers Federation) and he spent his time travelling from country to country, always prepared to stand up and fight for better working conditions for garment workers and for their right to organise.
I have spent the morning thinking about what it will mean to me, to H&M, to the garment industry, to the affiliated unions, to millions of garment workers that Neil is no longer among us. And I come up with four simple words, he will be missed!
2009.10.29
What do you want us to report about? It is time to start the process of reporting what we have accomplished in the field of sustainability and CSR during 2009. We invite all readers to mail us (before November 30th) at the e-mail below and tell us what you were missing in last year's report. As we put a lot of effort into making the Sustainability report as relevant, transparent and interesting as possible, we want to make sure that we are covering the areas you are interested in reading about.
If you were missing something in last year's report, please send me a few lines and explain what it is that your were missing. Please also tell me a bit about who you are (for example a customer, student, investor, NGO) and why you are particularly interested in this subject. It would be greatly appreciated and helpful for our reporting process! You find the 2008 report to the right of this column in case you have missed it.
Read more
2009.10.29
What do you want us to report about? It is time to start the process of reporting what we have accomplished in the field of sustainability and CSR during 2009. We invite all readers to mail us (before November 30th) at the e-mail below and tell us what you were missing in last year's report. As we put a lot of effort into making the Sustainability report as relevant, transparent and interesting as possible, we want to make sure that we are covering the areas you are interested in reading about.
If you were missing something in last year's report, please send me a few lines and explain what it is that your were missing. Please also tell me a bit about who you are (for example a customer, student, investor, NGO) and why you are particularly interested in this subject. It would be greatly appreciated and helpful for our reporting process! You find the 2008 report to the right of this column in case you have missed it.
2009.10.06
A new campaign has been launched to raise the minimum wage for garment workers i Asia. The initiative is called the Asian Floor Wage (AFW) campaign and has been launched by a large number of NGO's and trade unions in Asia, Europe and the US. The campaign has two objectives, namely labour rights as well as quality and timely production and delivery. One of the main proposals is what AFW calls a minimum living wage for Asian workers in the garment industry.
As many other retailers H&M has a Code of Conduct for the suppliers who produce the garments that we sell. In this Code we require that our suppliers pay at least the legal minimum wage plus overtime compensation. The campaign rightfully points out that in some cases the legal minimum wage is set too low compared to the cost of living in the country. We absolutely agree that the minimum wage should be possible to live on. We also think it is important with yearly revisions of the minimum wage.
Bangladesh is the country where the minimum wages are lowest in Asia. However only the helpers in factories receive a minimum wage. The machine operators who actually sew the garments earn three to six times more than the minimum wage. The average monthly pay is between 65 and 140 USD according to our findings during factory audits.
But because of the low minimum wage in Bangladesh we already held discussions with our suppliers about the possibility of them raising the wages for their workers even if minimum wages have not been revised. At the same time we were offering to pay higher prices to cover their costs if they could show that wages were increased. But they refused as they were afraid that it would be damaging for the competition and that other buyers may not be willing to pay a higher price to cover the cost. Anti-trust laws makes it impossible for brands and retailers to make any sorts of agreements between themselves regarding costs and pricing at shared suppliers. Therefore the wage issue is not a matter for individual brands or retailers. As consumers regularly award the lowest price in the very competitive retail market, a level playing field is necessary. Thus the only ways to increase wages for garment workers are legislation, collective agreements or voluntary initiatives by garment producers' and exporters' associations.
We encourage governments in Asia, particularly in Bangladesh, to listen to AFW and their call for a minimum living wage but whether or not the wage levels called for are relevant we can't judge. I am sure that H&M is not the only retailer that particularly would welcome a substantial increase of the legal minimum wage in Bangladesh immediately as well as yearly revisions in the future.
Read more
2009.10.06
A new campaign has been launched to raise the minimum wage for garment workers i Asia. The initiative is called the Asian Floor Wage (AFW) campaign and has been launched by a large number of NGO's and trade unions in Asia, Europe and the US. The campaign has two objectives, namely labour rights as well as quality and timely production and delivery. One of the main proposals is what AFW calls a minimum living wage for Asian workers in the garment industry.
As many other retailers H&M has a Code of Conduct for the suppliers who produce the garments that we sell. In this Code we require that our suppliers pay at least the legal minimum wage plus overtime compensation. The campaign rightfully points out that in some cases the legal minimum wage is set too low compared to the cost of living in the country. We absolutely agree that the minimum wage should be possible to live on. We also think it is important with yearly revisions of the minimum wage.
Bangladesh is the country where the minimum wages are lowest in Asia. However only the helpers in factories receive a minimum wage. The machine operators who actually sew the garments earn three to six times more than the minimum wage. The average monthly pay is between 65 and 140 USD according to our findings during factory audits.
But because of the low minimum wage in Bangladesh we already held discussions with our suppliers about the possibility of them raising the wages for their workers even if minimum wages have not been revised. At the same time we were offering to pay higher prices to cover their costs if they could show that wages were increased. But they refused as they were afraid that it would be damaging for the competition and that other buyers may not be willing to pay a higher price to cover the cost. Anti-trust laws makes it impossible for brands and retailers to make any sorts of agreements between themselves regarding costs and pricing at shared suppliers. Therefore the wage issue is not a matter for individual brands or retailers. As consumers regularly award the lowest price in the very competitive retail market, a level playing field is necessary. Thus the only ways to increase wages for garment workers are legislation, collective agreements or voluntary initiatives by garment producers' and exporters' associations.
We encourage governments in Asia, particularly in Bangladesh, to listen to AFW and their call for a minimum living wage but whether or not the wage levels called for are relevant we can't judge. I am sure that H&M is not the only retailer that particularly would welcome a substantial increase of the legal minimum wage in Bangladesh immediately as well as yearly revisions in the future.
2009.09.24
H&M does not accept child labour! I am therefore really pleased that after years of planning and research, the “All for Children” initiative is now off the ground. Over the next five years H&M and UNICEF will work together to create a better and healthier future for children, preventing child labour and promoting access to good education,”
The “All for Children” initiative will focus on the rights of children in the cotton growing districts Salem and Dharmapuri in Tamil Nadu in southern India, to help prevent exploitation of children and improve access to health and nutrition care services.
The project is a way for H&M to influence parts of the supply chain that we are unable to impose demands on.
The name ”All for Children” signifies that the project takes a broad view and tackles the underlying causes of child labour, which is necessary if we really want to change things, and also that everyone can join in and contribute. This includes our customers who will be able to contribute to the project through various in-store activities.
Contiuous updates about the project will be published here.
Read more
2009.09.24
H&M does not accept child labour! I am therefore really pleased that after years of planning and research, the “All for Children” initiative is now off the ground. Over the next five years H&M and UNICEF will work together to create a better and healthier future for children, preventing child labour and promoting access to good education,”
The “All for Children” initiative will focus on the rights of children in the cotton growing districts Salem and Dharmapuri in Tamil Nadu in southern India, to help prevent exploitation of children and improve access to health and nutrition care services.
The project is a way for H&M to influence parts of the supply chain that we are unable to impose demands on.
The name ”All for Children” signifies that the project takes a broad view and tackles the underlying causes of child labour, which is necessary if we really want to change things, and also that everyone can join in and contribute. This includes our customers who will be able to contribute to the project through various in-store activities.
Contiuous updates about the project will be published here.
2009.09.11
Swedish TV reported yesterday about hazardous chemicals in denim jeans. They had made tests and found unacceptable levels of nonylphenol etoxylate and dimethyl fumarate in jeans from other brands. Jeans from H&M had not been tested this time, but of course we do not accept these chemicals in our garments!.
H&M has been restricting chemicals in our garments since fifteen years, continously adding more and more chemicals that we do not accept to the list. We have restrictions for both chemicals mentioned above and we test to ensure that our suppliers have not used any chemicals that are not allowed. It is important for us that our customers feel safe when wearing our garments. It is also important for us that our garments do not contain chemicals that are hazardous for the environement.
As chemicals are used at many production stages of a pair of jeans, it is a constant challenge for us to make sure that no supplier anywhere in the world is violating our restrictions and use a substance that is not allowed by us. We encourage stricter regulation in this field, as it would be easier for us if it was not allowed to produce and sell chemicals that are harmful. We do not produce or sell the hazardous chemicals, but we are responsible for that they do not end up in the products we sell to the end consumer. The other way around would seem more fair, don't you think?
Read more
2009.09.11
Swedish TV reported yesterday about hazardous chemicals in denim jeans. They had made tests and found unacceptable levels of nonylphenol etoxylate and dimethyl fumarate in jeans from other brands. Jeans from H&M had not been tested this time, but of course we do not accept these chemicals in our garments!.
H&M has been restricting chemicals in our garments since fifteen years, continously adding more and more chemicals that we do not accept to the list. We have restrictions for both chemicals mentioned above and we test to ensure that our suppliers have not used any chemicals that are not allowed. It is important for us that our customers feel safe when wearing our garments. It is also important for us that our garments do not contain chemicals that are hazardous for the environement.
As chemicals are used at many production stages of a pair of jeans, it is a constant challenge for us to make sure that no supplier anywhere in the world is violating our restrictions and use a substance that is not allowed by us. We encourage stricter regulation in this field, as it would be easier for us if it was not allowed to produce and sell chemicals that are harmful. We do not produce or sell the hazardous chemicals, but we are responsible for that they do not end up in the products we sell to the end consumer. The other way around would seem more fair, don't you think?
2009.08.28
Finally our new consumer bags in recycled plastic are on their way to the stores! From next year they will gradually be introduced, country by country. It has been a long journey to understand what is genuinely a better alternative from an environmental perspective. The common perception that paper is better than plastic for example, proved to be wrong from a lifecycle perspective. Other potential alternatives such as starch based plastic made of corn turned out to have several drawbacks.
One of the more important shifts the world needs in terms of mindset is for all of us to start thinking of waste as a resource rather than just ...well... waste. When using recycled plastic for our bags we reduce the use of virgin oil, reduce the amount energy needed for producing the bags and thereby the CO2 emissions, while at the same time reducing the amount of waste that goes to landfills. Doesn't that seem like a good idea?
Read more
2009.08.28
Finally our new consumer bags in recycled plastic are on their way to the stores! From next year they will gradually be introduced, country by country. It has been a long journey to understand what is genuinely a better alternative from an environmental perspective. The common perception that paper is better than plastic for example, proved to be wrong from a lifecycle perspective. Other potential alternatives such as starch based plastic made of corn turned out to have several drawbacks.
One of the more important shifts the world needs in terms of mindset is for all of us to start thinking of waste as a resource rather than just ...well... waste. When using recycled plastic for our bags we reduce the use of virgin oil, reduce the amount energy needed for producing the bags and thereby the CO2 emissions, while at the same time reducing the amount of waste that goes to landfills. Doesn't that seem like a good idea?
2009.08.17
Back a from a few weeks holiday it is time to look into this autumn's sustainability agenda. First out is water. This week is the World Water Week in Stockholm and as H&M is supporting the CEO Water Mandate, we are participating in the meeting arranged here this week. This is also the first year we are requested to communicate our progress (COP-Water) as we are already communicating our progress on labour, environment and human rights to the UN Global Compact.
In times when climate change is in the focus of every environmental discussion, we feel that water is an issue that must not be forgotten. In our industry particularly, water is at the center of cotton farming, of textil processing and of garment care. Large parts of the world are already suffering from water stress. H&M is keen to learn more about our water footprint and to understand what we can do to keep it at a minimum.
Read more
2009.08.17
Back a from a few weeks holiday it is time to look into this autumn's sustainability agenda. First out is water. This week is the World Water Week in Stockholm and as H&M is supporting the CEO Water Mandate, we are participating in the meeting arranged here this week. This is also the first year we are requested to communicate our progress (COP-Water) as we are already communicating our progress on labour, environment and human rights to the UN Global Compact.
In times when climate change is in the focus of every environmental discussion, we feel that water is an issue that must not be forgotten. In our industry particularly, water is at the center of cotton farming, of textil processing and of garment care. Large parts of the world are already suffering from water stress. H&M is keen to learn more about our water footprint and to understand what we can do to keep it at a minimum.
2009.07.06
Last week I was in Zürich for the formation of Better Cotton Initative (BCI) as a Swiss membership organisation. As H&M has been part of this multi stakeholder initiative from the first meeting in 2004, it was a special feeling when it finally became an entity of it's own, standing on it's own feet so to speak.
After an election among the members, H&M was voted into the council (which can be compared to a board) and of course we are commited to continuing our work in BCI to make conventional cotton "better" globally.
The next exiting steps for BCI is to start implementation projects on the ground in countries such as India, Brazil, West&Central Africa and Pakistan and for H&M to make sure this "better cotton" ends up in our products once it is available in the market.
Read more
2009.07.06
Last week I was in Zürich for the formation of Better Cotton Initative (BCI) as a Swiss membership organisation. As H&M has been part of this multi stakeholder initiative from the first meeting in 2004, it was a special feeling when it finally became an entity of it's own, standing on it's own feet so to speak.
After an election among the members, H&M was voted into the council (which can be compared to a board) and of course we are commited to continuing our work in BCI to make conventional cotton "better" globally.
The next exiting steps for BCI is to start implementation projects on the ground in countries such as India, Brazil, West&Central Africa and Pakistan and for H&M to make sure this "better cotton" ends up in our products once it is available in the market.
2009.06.18
As you ae probably aware H&M sells a wide range of products in organic cotton. In order cooperate with other companies and organisations on the promotion of organic cotton we have been members of the Organic Exchange for a number of years. This month we are their featured member. Read more
2009.06.18
As you ae probably aware H&M sells a wide range of products in organic cotton. In order cooperate with other companies and organisations on the promotion of organic cotton we have been members of the Organic Exchange for a number of years. This month we are their featured member.
2009.06.11
In 2009 our current target for CO2 emissions is hopefully met, and it is time for us to set a new target. We have just initiated the process and I must say it is complicated. As much as we understand the urgency to combat climate change, setting a target is not easy!
Should we have a long term or a short term target? Should it be in absolute figures or take our growth into considearation? What should the scope be, do we include the supply chain and in that case how do we measure? Do we think compensation is a viable option at all? How much will the reporting standards change during the period we set our target for? What new technology will be available in the next few years that can help us fulfil our target? And this is just a sample of all the questions we have to answer in this process.
I have rarely initiated something with so many question marks to be straightened out . But on the other hand, it is an interesting challenge, we have to be creative and inventive in order to reduce our emissions. At the end of the year you will know the answers to most of the questions above when our new reduction target is presented.
Read more
2009.06.11
In 2009 our current target for CO2 emissions is hopefully met, and it is time for us to set a new target. We have just initiated the process and I must say it is complicated. As much as we understand the urgency to combat climate change, setting a target is not easy!
Should we have a long term or a short term target? Should it be in absolute figures or take our growth into considearation? What should the scope be, do we include the supply chain and in that case how do we measure? Do we think compensation is a viable option at all? How much will the reporting standards change during the period we set our target for? What new technology will be available in the next few years that can help us fulfil our target? And this is just a sample of all the questions we have to answer in this process.
I have rarely initiated something with so many question marks to be straightened out . But on the other hand, it is an interesting challenge, we have to be creative and inventive in order to reduce our emissions. At the end of the year you will know the answers to most of the questions above when our new reduction target is presented.
2009.06.05
How important is a really a receipt roll? I recently saw a report from a garment retailer, claiming to be the first retailer in the UK to have shifted to receipt rolls made from FSC certified paper. It had never really occured to me that news about a receipt roll could be of that much interest. But I do agree that paying attention also to the small details is important if you want to become a truly sustainable company. Especially a large retailer like H&M, using for example more than a million receipt rolls every year. So what about H&M's receipts then? Yes, you guessed completely right, they are also made from FSC certified paper! Read more
2009.06.05
How important is a really a receipt roll? I recently saw a report from a garment retailer, claiming to be the first retailer in the UK to have shifted to receipt rolls made from FSC certified paper. It had never really occured to me that news about a receipt roll could be of that much interest. But I do agree that paying attention also to the small details is important if you want to become a truly sustainable company. Especially a large retailer like H&M, using for example more than a million receipt rolls every year. So what about H&M's receipts then? Yes, you guessed completely right, they are also made from FSC certified paper!
2009.05.27
I have recently seen a new report about the continued use of child labour in the cotton fields of Uzbekistan. For a company like H&M that absolutely distances itself from all forms of child labour, the risk of cotton being picked by children ending up in our products is a serious problem.
H&M has therefore partnered with UNICEF, to address the situation of children in areas where cotton is being produced. We are just initiating a five year project together in India and we already support UNICEF's work in Uzbekistan.
Through H&M's support UNICEF in Uzbekistan has initiated an awareness raising campaign for elimination of the worst forms of child labour with focus on forced child labour in cotton harvesting. A commission has been set up with the support of UNICEF to draft a law on an ombudsperson for children.
To monitor the implementation of the Uzbek government's National Plan of Action for Child Labour, UNICEF has conducted its own observation visits to the cotton fields in several of the country's regions and the findings have been shared with the Ministry of Labour for their consideration.
H&M is currently looking for realistic methods to trace the origin of cotton through the long and complicated supply chain, that works large scale on a routine basis. Our suppliers normally source ready made fabric, but in the few cases where they source raw cotton, we have already made clear that we don't accept cotton that has been picked by children.
I am glad to say that already today we are able to track the country of origin for the certified organic cotton that we use in our products. We can therefore guarantee that the organic cotton we use never comes from Uzbekistan.
Read more
2009.05.27
I have recently seen a new report about the continued use of child labour in the cotton fields of Uzbekistan. For a company like H&M that absolutely distances itself from all forms of child labour, the risk of cotton being picked by children ending up in our products is a serious problem.
H&M has therefore partnered with UNICEF, to address the situation of children in areas where cotton is being produced. We are just initiating a five year project together in India and we already support UNICEF's work in Uzbekistan.
Through H&M's support UNICEF in Uzbekistan has initiated an awareness raising campaign for elimination of the worst forms of child labour with focus on forced child labour in cotton harvesting. A commission has been set up with the support of UNICEF to draft a law on an ombudsperson for children.
To monitor the implementation of the Uzbek government's National Plan of Action for Child Labour, UNICEF has conducted its own observation visits to the cotton fields in several of the country's regions and the findings have been shared with the Ministry of Labour for their consideration.
H&M is currently looking for realistic methods to trace the origin of cotton through the long and complicated supply chain, that works large scale on a routine basis. Our suppliers normally source ready made fabric, but in the few cases where they source raw cotton, we have already made clear that we don't accept cotton that has been picked by children.
I am glad to say that already today we are able to track the country of origin for the certified organic cotton that we use in our products. We can therefore guarantee that the organic cotton we use never comes from Uzbekistan.
2009.05.20
When did you last turn off your computer screen? Sometimes I come across advice about how to save energy, that is so simple that I decide to change my habit straight away.
I recently realised how much energy that is wasted globally every day just because most of us fail to push the off button on the computer screen, before we leave the office. Even if the screen is black or the screen saver is on, the screen still uses energy as long as it is not turned off.
So say after me, push that off button! Let's agree to do it every day. Can it be any easier to do something good for the climate?
Read more
2009.05.20
When did you last turn off your computer screen? Sometimes I come across advice about how to save energy, that is so simple that I decide to change my habit straight away.
I recently realised how much energy that is wasted globally every day just because most of us fail to push the off button on the computer screen, before we leave the office. Even if the screen is black or the screen saver is on, the screen still uses energy as long as it is not turned off.
So say after me, push that off button! Let's agree to do it every day. Can it be any easier to do something good for the climate?
2009.05.11
Isn't it fascinating how a reusable fabric bag has become almost a "must" item, carried by both sexes and all ages. I am wondering, if someone had told me five years ago that fashion consious and trendy people would select a simple bag made of fabric over almost any other type of bag in 2009, would I have believed them??
In any case, I am quite pleased that we are offring our customers an alternative to plastic by selling this bag with a fun splattered ink design in black and white. That it is made of organic cotton makes green as well...
2009.05.11
Isn't it fascinating how a reusable fabric bag has become almost a "must" item, carried by both sexes and all ages. I am wondering, if someone had told me five years ago that fashion consious and trendy people would select a simple bag made of fabric over almost any other type of bag in 2009, would I have believed them??
In any case, I am quite pleased that we are offring our customers an alternative to plastic by selling this bag with a fun splattered ink design in black and white. That it is made of organic cotton makes green as well...
2009.05.04
I have received a question about H&M's policy on mulesing from a reader in Australia.
This is a practice mainly performed in Australia to prevent fly strike on merino sheep. H&M has very early adopted a policy not to accept mulesing (as we find it painful for the lamb) and has encouraged the Australian wool industry to develop alternative methods. However, we have never said that we would not accept merino wool from Australia, this is a misunderstanding that seems to have been spread in Australian media.
The instruction we have given to our suppliers is to source wool from non-mulesed sheep, the country of origin we have never specified. Wool from farms in Australia that have never mulesed their sheep or has ceased the practice (and not replaced it with clips) would be welcome to supply wool for H&M's products. Certificates guaranteeing this would be accepted (NM and CM).
For the current season most of the merino wool sourced for H&M has come from South Africa, but as certified non-mulesed wool is readily available from Australia, H&M would have no objection.
We understand that the Australian farmers are concerned about their sheep, and that fly strike is also very painful for the animals. However, alternative methods to prevent fly strike are available and both we and our customers care about how animals are treated. We highly appreciate the efforts now made by the wool industry in Australia to further develop alternatives to mulesing.
Read more
2009.05.04
I have received a question about H&M's policy on mulesing from a reader in Australia.
This is a practice mainly performed in Australia to prevent fly strike on merino sheep. H&M has very early adopted a policy not to accept mulesing (as we find it painful for the lamb) and has encouraged the Australian wool industry to develop alternative methods. However, we have never said that we would not accept merino wool from Australia, this is a misunderstanding that seems to have been spread in Australian media.
The instruction we have given to our suppliers is to source wool from non-mulesed sheep, the country of origin we have never specified. Wool from farms in Australia that have never mulesed their sheep or has ceased the practice (and not replaced it with clips) would be welcome to supply wool for H&M's products. Certificates guaranteeing this would be accepted (NM and CM).
For the current season most of the merino wool sourced for H&M has come from South Africa, but as certified non-mulesed wool is readily available from Australia, H&M would have no objection.
We understand that the Australian farmers are concerned about their sheep, and that fly strike is also very painful for the animals. However, alternative methods to prevent fly strike are available and both we and our customers care about how animals are treated. We highly appreciate the efforts now made by the wool industry in Australia to further develop alternatives to mulesing.
2009.04.27
H&M's Sustainability Report for 2008 is out! We presented it this morning to a group of selected stakeholders and media, and so far it has received a very positvie response, both internally and externally. If you have not seen it yet, you find a link to the right of this column. We only publish the report on line, there is no printed version. It is easy to access, with brief information on the landing page and in the overview of each chaper. There is also more indepth information and performance data in case you are looking for that. After reading I would be happy to hear you feed-back! Read more
2009.04.27
H&M's Sustainability Report for 2008 is out! We presented it this morning to a group of selected stakeholders and media, and so far it has received a very positvie response, both internally and externally. If you have not seen it yet, you find a link to the right of this column. We only publish the report on line, there is no printed version. It is easy to access, with brief information on the landing page and in the overview of each chaper. There is also more indepth information and performance data in case you are looking for that. After reading I would be happy to hear you feed-back!
2009.04.21
Make a note to pass by again here on Monday 27th April. That's the day when we release H&M's Sustainability Report for 2008! If you are interested in what H&M has been doing lately in this field, I can almost promise that you will not be disappointed. Read more
2009.04.21
Make a note to pass by again here on Monday 27th April. That's the day when we release H&M's Sustainability Report for 2008! If you are interested in what H&M has been doing lately in this field, I can almost promise that you will not be disappointed.
2009.04.16
I got a question from a reader about recycling of our hangers. Of course recycling of waste is really central when it comes to becoming a more sustainable company. Reusing the hangers is the best option from a sustainability point of view, and that is done to some extent in the stores. But there are more hangers than we need so for the rest we have to go for the second best option; recycling. In 2008, 76% of the hangers we purchased were recycled, and I am sure we can still improve on that. We, and then I don't just mean we at H&M but all of us, have to learn to think of our waste as a resource instead of just.. well... waste! Read more
2009.04.16
I got a question from a reader about recycling of our hangers. Of course recycling of waste is really central when it comes to becoming a more sustainable company. Reusing the hangers is the best option from a sustainability point of view, and that is done to some extent in the stores. But there are more hangers than we need so for the rest we have to go for the second best option; recycling. In 2008, 76% of the hangers we purchased were recycled, and I am sure we can still improve on that. We, and then I don't just mean we at H&M but all of us, have to learn to think of our waste as a resource instead of just.. well... waste!
2009.04.07
How can we address CSR issues further down the supply chain, beyond the direct suppliers who manufacture the products we sell and who are covered by our Code of Conduct? I am off to Geneva tonight to speak at a workshop tomorrow about precisely that challenge, with special focus on cotton production.
It is obvious that cotton is relevant to H&M as it is our most important raw material. It is also widely known that although cotton is a renewable and in many ways fantastic material, the farming of cotton is connected with negative social and environmental impacts. What may be less known to anyone not involved in the garment industry is the complexity of the supply chain, making it almost impossible for a retailer like H&M to influence the situation on the cotton farms through the supply chain.
That does not mean that there is nothing we can do. In my presentation tomorrow I will focus on the three approaches H&M has chosen, to address cotton from a CSR perspective. We source certified organic cotton in increasing volumes every year, in 2008 we used more than 3000 tonnes. We are also members of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) working on improving farming of conventional cotton globally, and finally we are working with UNICEF on issues related to children in cotton growing regions in India and in Uzbekistan.
In my opinion it is almost impossible for any company to achieve substancial and sustainable improvement on their own, as cotton is a globally traded commodity, produced in a large number of countries around the world. Working together with others we can however make important contributions to improved conditions. That is precisely what H&M is doing, and what I will advice others to do in my presentation tomorrow!
Read more
2009.04.07
How can we address CSR issues further down the supply chain, beyond the direct suppliers who manufacture the products we sell and who are covered by our Code of Conduct? I am off to Geneva tonight to speak at a workshop tomorrow about precisely that challenge, with special focus on cotton production.
It is obvious that cotton is relevant to H&M as it is our most important raw material. It is also widely known that although cotton is a renewable and in many ways fantastic material, the farming of cotton is connected with negative social and environmental impacts. What may be less known to anyone not involved in the garment industry is the complexity of the supply chain, making it almost impossible for a retailer like H&M to influence the situation on the cotton farms through the supply chain.
That does not mean that there is nothing we can do. In my presentation tomorrow I will focus on the three approaches H&M has chosen, to address cotton from a CSR perspective. We source certified organic cotton in increasing volumes every year, in 2008 we used more than 3000 tonnes. We are also members of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) working on improving farming of conventional cotton globally, and finally we are working with UNICEF on issues related to children in cotton growing regions in India and in Uzbekistan.
In my opinion it is almost impossible for any company to achieve substancial and sustainable improvement on their own, as cotton is a globally traded commodity, produced in a large number of countries around the world. Working together with others we can however make important contributions to improved conditions. That is precisely what H&M is doing, and what I will advice others to do in my presentation tomorrow!
2009.04.01
I have read in the media that women in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia have created a Facebook group protesting against male sales assistants in underwear stores in the country. They don't feel comfortable shopping bras from men they say, who would I wonder?
The article I read claimed that female sales assitants are not allowed, but H&M would prove them wrong!
As H&M's franchise partner Alshaya opened the first H&M store in KSA, H&M insisted that women should be given the opportunity, both to work in the store, and to shop underwear in an all-female environment.
So to the women in Jeddah I have an advice. Go to Mall of Arabia and shop underwear in the H&M store with only female sales assistants.
H&M and Alshaya are also planning a special education for female retail staff in Jeddah in order to promote increased female employment in H&M and other retail stores in the country.
Read more
2009.04.01
I have read in the media that women in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia have created a Facebook group protesting against male sales assistants in underwear stores in the country. They don't feel comfortable shopping bras from men they say, who would I wonder?
The article I read claimed that female sales assitants are not allowed, but H&M would prove them wrong!
As H&M's franchise partner Alshaya opened the first H&M store in KSA, H&M insisted that women should be given the opportunity, both to work in the store, and to shop underwear in an all-female environment.
So to the women in Jeddah I have an advice. Go to Mall of Arabia and shop underwear in the H&M store with only female sales assistants.
H&M and Alshaya are also planning a special education for female retail staff in Jeddah in order to promote increased female employment in H&M and other retail stores in the country.
2009.03.27
In Turkey and Germany there have been some media reports lately about the health hazards connected with sandblasting of demim jeans. Luckily H&M was alerted to this hazard a few years back, and already in 2005 we developed special requirements for our suppliers performing sandblasting operations.
Factories performing sandblasting are regularly audited since 2006 and we check for example that sand made from quartz is not used, that the operators use protective equipment and that the area is properly ventilated. We have also educated our suppliers on the hazards and explained the importance of following our requirements strictly.
So when we read about severe health problems among sandblasting operators in Turkey, we are greatful that we had identified the hazards already, and made sure that the denim jeans sold at H&M have not been produced by workers exposed to such health risks.
Read more
2009.03.27
In Turkey and Germany there have been some media reports lately about the health hazards connected with sandblasting of demim jeans. Luckily H&M was alerted to this hazard a few years back, and already in 2005 we developed special requirements for our suppliers performing sandblasting operations.
Factories performing sandblasting are regularly audited since 2006 and we check for example that sand made from quartz is not used, that the operators use protective equipment and that the area is properly ventilated. We have also educated our suppliers on the hazards and explained the importance of following our requirements strictly.
So when we read about severe health problems among sandblasting operators in Turkey, we are greatful that we had identified the hazards already, and made sure that the denim jeans sold at H&M have not been produced by workers exposed to such health risks.
2009.03.25
Lights are out all over the world on Saturday night at 8.30 pm when it is time for this year's Earth Hour!
WWF encourages everyone to turn off their lights for one hour to manifest their commitment to combatting climate change. Of course we at H&M support the good purpose of this manifastation and we inform our staff on the intranet about the Earth Hour.
Regarding stores and offices, of course the majority of the lights are already turned off on a Saturday night. But for security reasons and other more technical reasons, lights can in some cases still be on. As much as we appreciate the symbolic action we also have to be a bit pragmatic. With more than 1700 stores and many offices and distribution centers, I don't even want to think about how much extra travel it would cause (and how much extra emissions that would lead to) if someone should travel to each H&M location on Saturday night to turn off the remaining lights for one hour manually.
So if you see some lights on in an H&M store or office on Saturday night, rest assure that we fully support the cause, but that turning off those lights would not be common sense. And what will I do on Saturday night? Turn off my lights, of course! What will you do?
Read more
2009.03.25
Lights are out all over the world on Saturday night at 8.30 pm when it is time for this year's Earth Hour!
WWF encourages everyone to turn off their lights for one hour to manifest their commitment to combatting climate change. Of course we at H&M support the good purpose of this manifastation and we inform our staff on the intranet about the Earth Hour.
Regarding stores and offices, of course the majority of the lights are already turned off on a Saturday night. But for security reasons and other more technical reasons, lights can in some cases still be on. As much as we appreciate the symbolic action we also have to be a bit pragmatic. With more than 1700 stores and many offices and distribution centers, I don't even want to think about how much extra travel it would cause (and how much extra emissions that would lead to) if someone should travel to each H&M location on Saturday night to turn off the remaining lights for one hour manually.
So if you see some lights on in an H&M store or office on Saturday night, rest assure that we fully support the cause, but that turning off those lights would not be common sense. And what will I do on Saturday night? Turn off my lights, of course! What will you do?
2009.03.24
There is a constant debate about chemicals in consumer products, and the effect they have on people and the environment. This is a subject H&M has worked with since the mid nineties, and I feel both confident and proud to say that we are at the forefront in our industry in this area .
We completely removed PVC from all products and packaging more than five years ago, and our restricted substances list now contains around 270 substances! Some examples are phthalates that are used as softeners in plastic, a long list of AZO-dyes, lead, so called APEOs and pesticides. There is very little regulation in this field, so a lot of our restrictions are voluntary and based on our own risk assessment.
To be on the safe side we also test samples of the garments to make sure that they live up to our requirements. Last year we made around 30.000 tests! The safety of our employees, the people involved in the production of the garments, and of course our customers is always a priority, and we also care about the environment.
So can we lean back and feel that there is nothing more to do? Of course not. We have been updating our list every second or third year, adding substances and lowering the restricted limits. This is an ongoing work, and it is typical for H&M that we always strive do things a little bit better!
Read more
2009.03.24
There is a constant debate about chemicals in consumer products, and the effect they have on people and the environment. This is a subject H&M has worked with since the mid nineties, and I feel both confident and proud to say that we are at the forefront in our industry in this area .
We completely removed PVC from all products and packaging more than five years ago, and our restricted substances list now contains around 270 substances! Some examples are phthalates that are used as softeners in plastic, a long list of AZO-dyes, lead, so called APEOs and pesticides. There is very little regulation in this field, so a lot of our restrictions are voluntary and based on our own risk assessment.
To be on the safe side we also test samples of the garments to make sure that they live up to our requirements. Last year we made around 30.000 tests! The safety of our employees, the people involved in the production of the garments, and of course our customers is always a priority, and we also care about the environment.
So can we lean back and feel that there is nothing more to do? Of course not. We have been updating our list every second or third year, adding substances and lowering the restricted limits. This is an ongoing work, and it is typical for H&M that we always strive do things a little bit better!
2009.03.18
The Turkish textile manufacturer Menderes does not supply to H&M. After reports today in Swedish media about serious safety issues at the company, who supplies another wellknown Swedish brand, we immediately contacted our Istanbul office to have this confirmed.
Every such report reminds us however how important it is to continously monitor the conditions at factories that supply to us, and also to act immediately on any indications from unions or employees that there are potential problems!
Read more
2009.03.18
The Turkish textile manufacturer Menderes does not supply to H&M. After reports today in Swedish media about serious safety issues at the company, who supplies another wellknown Swedish brand, we immediately contacted our Istanbul office to have this confirmed.
Every such report reminds us however how important it is to continously monitor the conditions at factories that supply to us, and also to act immediately on any indications from unions or employees that there are potential problems!
2009.03.17
There has been a lot of discusions lately about international migration of labour and the various issues related to that. We are not sourcing from the countries that are traditionally recruiting migrant workers, such as Malaysia and Jordan, and therefore did not have a strong focus on the subject during our audits.
But today an intresting story is developing. We learned some time ago that a Romanian supplier is planning to recruit workers from Bangladesh. We therefore asked our office in Dhaka to contact the recruitment agency there to find out if there are any fees, deposits etc paid by the workers in connection with the recruitment.
Today we recieved a report and the information was worrying. It seems there are costs involved that are not covered by the employer in Romania, and that is not acceptable according to our Code of Conduct. It is not clear if the Romanian supplier is even aware if this. We will of course follow up on this with the supplier.
This is a good example of the day to day problems we face and deal with at the CSR department and we learn something new every day...
Read more
2009.03.17
There has been a lot of discusions lately about international migration of labour and the various issues related to that. We are not sourcing from the countries that are traditionally recruiting migrant workers, such as Malaysia and Jordan, and therefore did not have a strong focus on the subject during our audits.
But today an intresting story is developing. We learned some time ago that a Romanian supplier is planning to recruit workers from Bangladesh. We therefore asked our office in Dhaka to contact the recruitment agency there to find out if there are any fees, deposits etc paid by the workers in connection with the recruitment.
Today we recieved a report and the information was worrying. It seems there are costs involved that are not covered by the employer in Romania, and that is not acceptable according to our Code of Conduct. It is not clear if the Romanian supplier is even aware if this. We will of course follow up on this with the supplier.
This is a good example of the day to day problems we face and deal with at the CSR department and we learn something new every day...
2009.03.12
Clean Clothes Campaign in Norway has written a letter to encourage us to request in our Code of Conduct that our suppliers should pay a so called "living wage". H&M does not own the factories where our garments are produced, and we do not determin or pay wages to the workers.
However we do request in our Code of Conduct, and check through audits, that the factories we are sourcing from pay, as a minimum, wages and other compensations that the workers are legally entitled to.
We are of couse aware that minimum wages sometimes are low in comparison to the cost of living in a country, and we agree with the ILO who in their Global Wage Report 2008/2009 write that "minimum wages should be raised wherever possible to protect the purchasing power of the most vulnerable workers". But we also think, again in line with the ILO's conclusions, that "higher coverage of collective bargaining ensures that wages are more responsive to economic growth and also contributes to lower wage inequaliy".
However, in the current scenario of global economic crises, factory closures and mass redundancies, bringing up the issue of living wages seems a bit out of tune with reality. We now have to focus on mitigating as best as we can, the negative effects of the economic downturn on the workers.
Read more
2009.03.12
Clean Clothes Campaign in Norway has written a letter to encourage us to request in our Code of Conduct that our suppliers should pay a so called "living wage". H&M does not own the factories where our garments are produced, and we do not determin or pay wages to the workers.
However we do request in our Code of Conduct, and check through audits, that the factories we are sourcing from pay, as a minimum, wages and other compensations that the workers are legally entitled to.
We are of couse aware that minimum wages sometimes are low in comparison to the cost of living in a country, and we agree with the ILO who in their Global Wage Report 2008/2009 write that "minimum wages should be raised wherever possible to protect the purchasing power of the most vulnerable workers". But we also think, again in line with the ILO's conclusions, that "higher coverage of collective bargaining ensures that wages are more responsive to economic growth and also contributes to lower wage inequaliy".
However, in the current scenario of global economic crises, factory closures and mass redundancies, bringing up the issue of living wages seems a bit out of tune with reality. We now have to focus on mitigating as best as we can, the negative effects of the economic downturn on the workers.
2009.03.09
Sometimes we don't see the sustainability opportunities that we have right in front of us every day. How many papers do we print and copy every day for example? Today we set all our printers in the headoffice to default double sided printing. Nothing to brag about really, we should have done it along time ago... But we use 4.8 million office papers per year in the head office only. This is equivalent to 580 trees! Think about it! We will now save 290 trees a year, with the push of a button more or less, in one office. If all printers in the world were set to default double sided printing, how many trees could be saved? Mind boggling... Read more
2009.03.09
Sometimes we don't see the sustainability opportunities that we have right in front of us every day. How many papers do we print and copy every day for example? Today we set all our printers in the headoffice to default double sided printing. Nothing to brag about really, we should have done it along time ago... But we use 4.8 million office papers per year in the head office only. This is equivalent to 580 trees! Think about it! We will now save 290 trees a year, with the push of a button more or less, in one office. If all printers in the world were set to default double sided printing, how many trees could be saved? Mind boggling...
2009.03.04
The Royal Government of Cambodia are considering an amendment to article 67 and 73 of the Cambodian law. H&M is concerned about the planned amendment as it would open up the possibility of abuse of short term contracts. A number of brands, including H&M, sourcing from Cambodia have sent a joint letter to the Cambodian Government to express our concerns over the planned amendment. In H&M's opinion the letter should have been even sharper, as the planned amendments are not in line with Cambodia's image as a sourcing country with high labour standards. H&M hopes that the Royal Goverment of Cambodia will not adopt the proposed revisions, and instead find a solution consistent with international labour standards and good practices. Read more
2009.03.04
The Royal Government of Cambodia are considering an amendment to article 67 and 73 of the Cambodian law. H&M is concerned about the planned amendment as it would open up the possibility of abuse of short term contracts. A number of brands, including H&M, sourcing from Cambodia have sent a joint letter to the Cambodian Government to express our concerns over the planned amendment. In H&M's opinion the letter should have been even sharper, as the planned amendments are not in line with Cambodia's image as a sourcing country with high labour standards. H&M hopes that the Royal Goverment of Cambodia will not adopt the proposed revisions, and instead find a solution consistent with international labour standards and good practices.
2009.03.03
Today I met with a group of Russian journalists who were interested in how we work with CSR.
It is really interesting to see how CSR is of great interest in every new market we are entering. It has become a global topic, important for employees, customers and other stakeholder more or less in every market. And what was one of the first questions I got? "Will you offer organic cotton products in your Moscow store?" Of course we will! We will offer our customers organic cotton in every market and are happy that there is such massive interest.
Read more
2009.03.03
Today I met with a group of Russian journalists who were interested in how we work with CSR.
It is really interesting to see how CSR is of great interest in every new market we are entering. It has become a global topic, important for employees, customers and other stakeholder more or less in every market. And what was one of the first questions I got? "Will you offer organic cotton products in your Moscow store?" Of course we will! We will offer our customers organic cotton in every market and are happy that there is such massive interest.
2009.02.27
I have realised that many of our customers are not aware that the major impact on the environment from a garment is often the washing, tumble drying and ironing. It is such a pity, because easy measures such as lowering the washing temperature and drip drying instead of tumble drying are examples of easy ways to reduce carbon emissions. And many customers think that it is necessary to wash our garments before use, which is absolutely wrong. We have strict chemical restrictions and testing programs to ensure that the garments are safe to wear immediately, also for children. So my tip of the day is, save energy, money and the environment by washing less. And when you wash, please consider lowering the temperature. Read more
2009.02.27
I have realised that many of our customers are not aware that the major impact on the environment from a garment is often the washing, tumble drying and ironing. It is such a pity, because easy measures such as lowering the washing temperature and drip drying instead of tumble drying are examples of easy ways to reduce carbon emissions. And many customers think that it is necessary to wash our garments before use, which is absolutely wrong. We have strict chemical restrictions and testing programs to ensure that the garments are safe to wear immediately, also for children. So my tip of the day is, save energy, money and the environment by washing less. And when you wash, please consider lowering the temperature.
2009.02.23
We always talk about beeing sustainable and what could that mean for a company like H&M? Well having been around for 62 years already, another 100 years sounds pretty sustainable to me! But achieving this will mean hard work, and sincere efforts to continuously improve our ways of making business. And never to lose our focus on People, Planet and Profit! Read more
2009.02.23
We always talk about beeing sustainable and what could that mean for a company like H&M? Well having been around for 62 years already, another 100 years sounds pretty sustainable to me! But achieving this will mean hard work, and sincere efforts to continuously improve our ways of making business. And never to lose our focus on People, Planet and Profit!
2009.02.23
We have received worrying news from our office in Bangladesh. Our supplier House of Sunshine has informed us not to place further orders with them as they have decided to close the factory! As reported in local media there has also been some unrest at the factory as a consequence of this decision.
This supplier was critisised in German and Swedish media for bad working conditions last year, although most of the allegations were unfounded according to the workers and a local union. H&M has previously been dissatisfied with the compliance with our Code of Conduct at this facory, but as we had seen some improvements we were prepared to continue business with them, at least for the time being, while observing the working conditions closely. But now the owners have made the decision to close down soon, and they will not continue in the garment business at all.
We are worried about the current situation and our local office is in a dialogue with the management about closing down in a responsible manner, ensuring all workers their legal compensation in connection with the close down. We sincerely hope that further unrest and damages can be avoided.
Read more
2009.02.23
We have received worrying news from our office in Bangladesh. Our supplier House of Sunshine has informed us not to place further orders with them as they have decided to close the factory! As reported in local media there has also been some unrest at the factory as a consequence of this decision.
This supplier was critisised in German and Swedish media for bad working conditions last year, although most of the allegations were unfounded according to the workers and a local union. H&M has previously been dissatisfied with the compliance with our Code of Conduct at this facory, but as we had seen some improvements we were prepared to continue business with them, at least for the time being, while observing the working conditions closely. But now the owners have made the decision to close down soon, and they will not continue in the garment business at all.
We are worried about the current situation and our local office is in a dialogue with the management about closing down in a responsible manner, ensuring all workers their legal compensation in connection with the close down. We sincerely hope that further unrest and damages can be avoided.
2009.02.19
Recognition for our sustainabilty efforts is always welcome! We are honored to once again be included in Corporate Knights Global 100-list over the 100 most sustainable corporations in the world! Read more
2009.02.19
Recognition for our sustainabilty efforts is always welcome! We are honored to once again be included in Corporate Knights Global 100-list over the 100 most sustainable corporations in the world!
2009.02.16
This is the season for reporting and work at our Sustainability report is in full swing. Information has to be gathered from all parts of the organisation, analysed and reported in a way that satisfies all our stakeholders. Not an easy task... Today I spend the entire day reading drafts for different chapters and giving my final comments an inputs. It feels great to realise that we really did quite a lot during last year! It is not so obvious from day to day that the work is really leading forward, but at the end of the year when we summarise what we have done I realise that it all adds up to something really worth reporting.
Look out for our 2008 Sustainability report at this web site around mid April.
Read more
2009.02.16
This is the season for reporting and work at our Sustainability report is in full swing. Information has to be gathered from all parts of the organisation, analysed and reported in a way that satisfies all our stakeholders. Not an easy task... Today I spend the entire day reading drafts for different chapters and giving my final comments an inputs. It feels great to realise that we really did quite a lot during last year! It is not so obvious from day to day that the work is really leading forward, but at the end of the year when we summarise what we have done I realise that it all adds up to something really worth reporting.
Look out for our 2008 Sustainability report at this web site around mid April.
2009.02.11
I am very excited by the news that Karl-Johan Persson has been appointed by the board as our next CEO! He has shown such keen interest for promoting sustainability within H&M and for making it a shared responsibility for everyone within the company. During 2008 he has been actively engaged in the development our new sustainability strategy that includes a balance between people, planet and profit. I am really looking forward to working with him in the coming years! Read more
2009.02.11
I am very excited by the news that Karl-Johan Persson has been appointed by the board as our next CEO! He has shown such keen interest for promoting sustainability within H&M and for making it a shared responsibility for everyone within the company. During 2008 he has been actively engaged in the development our new sustainability strategy that includes a balance between people, planet and profit. I am really looking forward to working with him in the coming years!
2009.02.09
We had a really good meeting with UNICEF this morning about a new project that we are planning together in India. I hope to be able to share more about this project later. Under the global partnership we have with them since several years we are already supporting projects in Cambodia and Uzbekistan that you can read more about in articles on this site.
Now I am soon off to a meeting with our regional coordinators for our Code of Conduct implementation. One of the more exciting topics on the agenda is the revision of our Code of Conduct. After eleven years we feel that an update is needed and we have been working on a revised version for som time now. In fact, I would say that the new Code is already more or less implemented. We are adjusting the Code language to reflect the way we are now working with our suppliers towards sustainable improvements of the working conditions in their factories.
Read more
2009.02.09
We had a really good meeting with UNICEF this morning about a new project that we are planning together in India. I hope to be able to share more about this project later. Under the global partnership we have with them since several years we are already supporting projects in Cambodia and Uzbekistan that you can read more about in articles on this site.
Now I am soon off to a meeting with our regional coordinators for our Code of Conduct implementation. One of the more exciting topics on the agenda is the revision of our Code of Conduct. After eleven years we feel that an update is needed and we have been working on a revised version for som time now. In fact, I would say that the new Code is already more or less implemented. We are adjusting the Code language to reflect the way we are now working with our suppliers towards sustainable improvements of the working conditions in their factories.
2009.02.06
Good news about down and feathers just before leaving the office for the week-end! Our research team in China has reported back from their visits to slaughter houses where they have witnessed how the duck are slaughtered for meat and how feathers are removed - afterwards. This is according to our policy and according to the information we had from our suppliers, but now we have have seen with our own eyes! Read more
2009.02.06
Good news about down and feathers just before leaving the office for the week-end! Our research team in China has reported back from their visits to slaughter houses where they have witnessed how the duck are slaughtered for meat and how feathers are removed - afterwards. This is according to our policy and according to the information we had from our suppliers, but now we have have seen with our own eyes!
2009.02.06
I am just preparing for a webinar I will hold with our management in Japan and China about a newly introduced environmental guidance document. I have not yet received the figures for last years CO2 emmissions, but the year before, emmissions from travel had increased while other emmissions were going down. I just love the possibility to meet without travel and I think we can use this possibility much more. Arranging webinars myself is a way of promoting them internally and demonstrating how easy it is. I am on a misson! Read more
2009.02.06
I am just preparing for a webinar I will hold with our management in Japan and China about a newly introduced environmental guidance document. I have not yet received the figures for last years CO2 emmissions, but the year before, emmissions from travel had increased while other emmissions were going down. I just love the possibility to meet without travel and I think we can use this possibility much more. Arranging webinars myself is a way of promoting them internally and demonstrating how easy it is. I am on a misson!
2009.02.05
I wonder how many hours we have spent discussing and researching alternatives to plastic consumer bags. From an environmental point of view it is easy to draw the conclusion that plastic is no good. But is it always true? Research has shown that taking everything into account, plastic can be better than paper, and a plastic bag used a few times is better than almost any alternative. On top of that, legislation differs from country to country, and national recycling programs complicates the issue even further. So what is our solution?
At the moment we feel that recycled plastic is the better alternative in the shorter term. Last week we met one of our largest suppliers of plastic consumer bags and discussed how we can develop a bag in recycled plastic that is meeting all our requirements. We need a solution sooner rather than later, I think our customers expect that from us. In the meantime, reducing the number of bags handed out is not a bad alternative. Our customers can help the environment by bringing their own reusable bag.
Read more
2009.02.05
I wonder how many hours we have spent discussing and researching alternatives to plastic consumer bags. From an environmental point of view it is easy to draw the conclusion that plastic is no good. But is it always true? Research has shown that taking everything into account, plastic can be better than paper, and a plastic bag used a few times is better than almost any alternative. On top of that, legislation differs from country to country, and national recycling programs complicates the issue even further. So what is our solution?
At the moment we feel that recycled plastic is the better alternative in the shorter term. Last week we met one of our largest suppliers of plastic consumer bags and discussed how we can develop a bag in recycled plastic that is meeting all our requirements. We need a solution sooner rather than later, I think our customers expect that from us. In the meantime, reducing the number of bags handed out is not a bad alternative. Our customers can help the environment by bringing their own reusable bag.
2009.02.04
This week the media focus in Sweden has been on down products after a TV documentary about how down and feathers are plucked from live birds. As everyone else who saw it, we were really upset about how the birds were treated. Animal welfare is important to me and to H&M and we know that our customers really care too. Therefore we don't sell real fur, we don't allow animal testing on cosmetics and we don't allow mulesing on merino sheep. We hardly sell any down at all but we have a policy since several years stating that our suppliers only can use down from birds that have already been slaughtered for meet production. This week I have been in contact with our offices in China and asked them to personally visit down producers and to check how the down is collected. We really can't accept that down from live birds end up in our products and we will make every effort to ensure that we have full control over the origin of any down used for our products in the future. Read more
2009.02.04
This week the media focus in Sweden has been on down products after a TV documentary about how down and feathers are plucked from live birds. As everyone else who saw it, we were really upset about how the birds were treated. Animal welfare is important to me and to H&M and we know that our customers really care too. Therefore we don't sell real fur, we don't allow animal testing on cosmetics and we don't allow mulesing on merino sheep. We hardly sell any down at all but we have a policy since several years stating that our suppliers only can use down from birds that have already been slaughtered for meet production. This week I have been in contact with our offices in China and asked them to personally visit down producers and to check how the down is collected. We really can't accept that down from live birds end up in our products and we will make every effort to ensure that we have full control over the origin of any down used for our products in the future.
2009.02.03
We are so excited about our spring collections in organic cotton. Unfortunately some of our customers tell us that they can't find the garments in our stores. In fact we have increased the volumes since last year. We just had a meeting to discuss how to label the garments better for next season to make them easier to find. There are so many pretty children's garments, printed t-shirts and much more in almost all departments. So don't give up, keep on looking, organic is here to stay! Read more
2009.02.03
We are so excited about our spring collections in organic cotton. Unfortunately some of our customers tell us that they can't find the garments in our stores. In fact we have increased the volumes since last year. We just had a meeting to discuss how to label the garments better for next season to make them easier to find. There are so many pretty children's garments, printed t-shirts and much more in almost all departments. So don't give up, keep on looking, organic is here to stay!
2009.02.02
Welcome to my column! Did you ever wonder what happens at the CSR-department of a multinational retailer? Do you feel that the CSR-report at the end of the year gives you too little information too late?
In this column I plan to share with you the struggles, the successes, the debates, the bright ideas, the dilemmas and the solutions from me and my team as they are evolving. I hope you will find it interesting reading, and I welcome your comments, although I will unfortunately not be able to respond to all of them.
Read more
2009.02.02
Welcome to my column! Did you ever wonder what happens at the CSR-department of a multinational retailer? Do you feel that the CSR-report at the end of the year gives you too little information too late?
In this column I plan to share with you the struggles, the successes, the debates, the bright ideas, the dilemmas and the solutions from me and my team as they are evolving. I hope you will find it interesting reading, and I welcome your comments, although I will unfortunately not be able to respond to all of them.
1 / 10
Opinions expressed are the personal views of Ingrid Schullström and do not necessarily represent the official views of H&M. Do you have questions or feedback? Please click here.